European Cuisine in South KC

Avenues Brookside Bistro

Yesterday I promised to take my lovely wife Natasha to Aixois French Bistro in Brookside. We've tried to go there several times over the past year, yet somehow they're always closed. Maybe they see us coming and turn off the lights...

Anyway, to appease her, we looped back around to 63rd and Wornall to go to Avenues Brookside Bistro, at 338 W. 63rd Street. Having never been here, we weren't sure what to expect, assuming only that it was a high-end type of place. As it was three o'clock on a Sunday afternoon, the place was virtually deserted and we were quickly shown past the full, front-of-house bar to a cozy dining room beyond.

Consisting of only a dozen booths and eight tables, Avenues is clearly going for a quality over quantity approach to dining. Handed menus by our waitress, we were left in peace for a few minutes to examine our choices as well as our surroundings. The decor of the place seems to be inspired by a harlequin, three walls painted a rich crimson, and the fourth a checked-pattern of crimson and white diamonds. With only small windows high on the wall, it does have a slightly basement-like quality, but overall is very soothing and classy.

The menu also confirmed the class of this secret spot. Offering a wide variety of European-inspired dishes including a Basque chicken, Jaeger schnitzel, and a wide variety of seafood choices, it's clear that executive chef Mario Galan has devoted considerable time and energy in developing such a diverse, yet complementary menu. Prices were fairly high, but as you will see, completely worth it.

In the face of so many good choices, it was difficult to make a decision, but finally Natasha settled on the Veal Saltimbocca, a thin piece of veal scallopine with prosciutto and sage, served on a bed of sauteed spinach with artichokes and fontina cheese, in a butter cream sauce. I went with the Veal Beggar's Purse Pasta, a mixture of sweet veal and parmesan in pasta, served with a shallot cream sauce, finished with black truffle butter. We also both had a cup of the soup of the day, a salmon bisque.

Before long, our waitress brought our soup. Having read Tony Bourdain's books, I'm quite aware of the fact that this was probably salmon rapidly approaching its expiration, but it made no difference. The soup, topped by our server with fresh-cracked pepper, was rich and delicious, the salmon flavor rising to the forefront, while the creaminess played a complimentary role.

As I was finishing my soup, we were offered fresh rolls and whipped butter by our server. That is, I think it was our server. The owner of Avenues clearly subscribes to the theory that wait staff should blend into the background, as the servers all seemed to be clones of one another. The waitresses and hostess were all petite and dark-haired in black dresses, completely devoid of any splash of color. The waiters were all tall and slim, also wearing the Johnny Cash uniform. However, clones or not, they are excellent and attentive, repeatedly filling my water before it was halfway down (after Saturday at the Waldo Falldo Crawldo, I was in no position for wine).

Soon after our soup was gone, our entrees arrived. Natasha's veal was amazing, possibly the best veal I've ever had (and I love veal, as long as I don't think of how it's raised). Moderately sweet, it was amazingly succulent and tender, melting in your mouth like butter. The sides provided an excellent counter-point, making a truly magnificent dish.

My pasta was also very good. Topped with shaved parmesan and an Italian pico de gallo-type dressing, it was extremely rich. In fact, considering I hadn't eaten all day, it may have been too rich for an empty stomach. This, however, did not stop me from enjoying it. The black truffle butter and the shallot cream sauce were complex and flavorful, adding to the delicate veal flavor of the pasta. Overall, very good.

I would have liked to try the dessert, but quite frankly, didn't have room. I'm sure it would have been just as satisfying as the rest of this meal.

And lest you think I'm alone in my adoration of this place, read The Pitch's review here. The reviewer tried his best to hate Avenues, but in the end, the fantastic food won him over.

Scorecard
Food: 4.9
Atmosphere: 4
Service: 4.7
Menu: 4.2
Price: 2.7
Total: 20.5
Average: 4.1

http://www.avenuesbistro.com/index.php