The Problem with Chains

This weekend I went to visit my grandmother in St. Louis. As she doesn't get out too much anymore, Natasha and I decided we would take her out to lunch. As she lives in what many would consider "the hood", we had to drive several miles to find a restaurant, and were presented with three options: White Castle, Cracker Barrel or Applebees.

Now Whitey's was out for sure, it's really only good when you already have a bellyful of beer, so that left either Cracker Barrel or Applebees. Natasha, for some reason, hates Cracker Barrel with the fiery passion that I reserve only for the Missouri Tigers, Joakim Noah, and people who label their photos "Steve and I ...". That settled it, for us then, Applebees it was...


Now I haven't frequented an Applebees for a good three to four years, and I was pretty sure I wasn't going to get anything spectacular, but at the same time, I assumed there would be a minimum level of edibility. There was not.

Grandma went with the quesadilla burger and a side salad. The salad, for some reason, didn't arrive until approximately 35 seconds before the rest of our order, so the meal got off to a bad start.

I too, decided I would eat the quesadilla burger, which turns out to be a hamburger patty sandwiched between two tortillas with some salsa and cheese. While the flavor of this was okay, it looked like it was assembled at the school for the blind, the components almost randomly slapped together and then haphazardly cut in two. I would have been willing to overlook this, had the same problem not carried over to Natasha's entree.

Natasha ordered the Grilled Shrimp N' Spinach Salad (god, how I hate that cutesy little "n'"). It was supposed to look like this:


It did not.

Unfortunately, I neglected to photograph this disaster, but imagine, if you will, the above salad, literally drenched in bacon vinaigrette (read bacon grease and vinegar), with less than half the shrimp, all of which were overcooked to the point of complete char, and mixed in with massive slices of purple onions, which were no doubt cut by the same sight-impaired gentleman who assembled my burger.

It's pretty apparent that the line cook, who was by no means swamped as it was well past the lunch rush, just didn't care. This, of course, is the main problem with most chain restaurants; because they follow a preset formula for all items, there is little care or pride in preparing the food. As a result, you are served slop.

Now don't get me wrong. I'm not one of these local nazis who will berate someone for eating at a chain (you know who you are). I like Buffalo Wild Wings and Sweet Tomatoes, and I think Red Robin has some of the best burgers around. I also enjoy Hardees and have been known to frequent Taco Bell on occasion.

However, trips to chain restaurants tend leave me with the same bitter taste in my mouth. Applebees, Ruby Tuesday, Chili's, TGIFriday's, they're all interchangeable, and all too often, they just don't have the same commitment to quality that their local counterparts have. And that, dear readers, is reason enough to eat locally.

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A Mexican Yin and Yang

Guadalajara Cafe

Guadalajara Cafe, at 1144 W. 103rd Street, is a study in contrasts, albeit an unintentional one. Somethings they do really well, and in other areas, well, let's just say they're lacking.

Located in a fairly non-descript shopping center, I've passed this way hundreds of times, with usually no more than the passing thought, "I should try that place." On Friday, my wife and I decided we would finally try it out. And I'm not sure how I feel about it...

On the one hand, everything we consumed here was pretty good. On the other, most of the intangibles for this place sucked.

Case in point, the decor. Whoever designed the interior of this place seems to have been suffering from split personality disorder, because it's not clear if it's intended to be a white tablecloth restaurant, or a Mexican cantina, as both are represented, and neither done particularly well. With tables in straight lines and at 90 degree angles to one another, this place was vaguely reminiscent of a high school cafeteria. Toss a few star-shaped light fixtures, and you've got a Martha Stewart nightmare. And of course, the Christmas tree and holiday music didn't help much...

On the other hand, this place has fantastic margaritas. We both went with the Guadalajara Margaritas on the rocks, and we were not disappointed, as these were big margaritas, not the wimpy ones you see at lots of Mexican places. Mixed strong, but not overwhelming, I didn't mind shelling out six bucks a pop for them.

However, I did mind waiting 20 minutes for a waiter to appear and take our drink orders. I'm not sure what the deal was, but we arrived right at the tail end of the dinner rush, when the big Friday night crowd was finishing and leaving. As such, our waiter shouldn't have been overwhelmed. But after being seated and given menus, we sat completely unattended for 15 minutes before a silent and surly kid brought us chips and salsa. Then we waited another 5 minutes before our waiter appeared and took our drink order, and then another 10 until he returned with our drinks and took down our food order,even though we had decided within 10 minutes of being seated...

But let's back up for a moment, to the chips and salsa. The chips at Guadalajara are really good, as good as fried tortillas with salt can be. Paired with their homemade salsa with chunks of fresh onion, tomato and cilantro, I was very pleased with this. This proved to be just a primer for the meal, which featured authentic Mexican food (not Tex-Mex) and was good all around. Natasha went for the Seafood Burrito Acapulco, and I choose the Camarones del Diablo, and both were good choices.

Natasha's was a huge burrito stuffed with shrimp, talapia, scallops and real crab, topped with a cream sauce, with Spanish rice, tomatoes and avocados on the side. Really good, overall, and added points for using real crab, which has a different texture than the fake stuff. The cream sauce was good, though not particularly unique, but the flavors of the dish all around were quite satisfying.

As for me, I had the Camarones del Diablo, which was shrimp, onions and mushrooms in a spicy tomato sauce, served with tortillas and rice. While I enjoyed this dish, the Diablo sauce was a little too tomato-y. It tasted a lot like tomato juice, which it probably was, and that out muscled the flavor of the shrimp and especially the mushrooms. This is not to say, however, that it was unpleasant, as it was an enjoyable dish. My rice side was not Spanish rice, but instead some sort of fried rice, which served as a nice, starchy counterpoint to the entree.

Overall, we recieved a huge amount of food for around $12-16 per entree, and it was all good. While the service and atmosphere weren't the best, the authentic Mexican flavors are sure to bring us back to Guadalajara cafe at some point.

Scorecard
Food: 4.8
Atmosphere: 1.4
Service: 1.3
Menu: 4.5
Price: 3.5
Total: 15.5
Average: 3.1

http://www.kcrestaurantguide.com/guadalajara_cafe.htm

Erin Go Bragh

The Gaf

I really like the Gaf, an Irish Pub at 7122 Wornall. I used to work in the bank building across the street, and this is where we'd often have our business meetings, or an after-work drink. In fact, it was this very location, where my business partner took me to tell me he was screwing me over and I was out of the company, probably for the same reason why people often break up in public, so that I wouldn't make a scene. But that's a story for another day...

The Gaf is exactly how I picture pubs in Ireland. Having never been to the Emerald Isle, I can only imagine, but as the place is run by actual Micks and Limeys, I have to assume it's fairly authentic. With dark wood paneling and matching bar furniture, the flat screen televisions are invariably tuned into soccer, rugby or some other game we Americans don't really follow. Couple this with an outstanding beer selection including Harp, Boddingtons and the requisite Guiness, plus a wide selection of Irish whiskeys and you've got a fine drink selection.

But don't think this place is all about the booze. The food is really good too. At one time or another, I've had just about everything on the menu, and most of it is excellent. For starters, I recommend you try their fried calamari. Served with a Guiness-mustard aioli, it's some of the best I've found in Kansas City, and I'm something of a calamari-fiend. Also, the Gaf Irish Chips, fries covered with cheese, bacon, tomato and sour cream are a meal in and of themselves. The Buffalo wings are okay, though the sauce is too buttery for my tastes, as I prefer a dominate vinegar flavor.

For main courses, their signature dish is Romanelli's catfish (a holdover from the previous occupant of this location), though I highly recommend the braised lamb shank, the chicken curry or the chicken fried steak. If you're in the mood for a sandwich, the Gaf Club, a pressed panini of turkey, ham and bacon with a pesto sauce is good, though the real star is the Irish Gut Bomb. They're not kidding about the name either. Made of a breaded pork tenderloin topped with fried eggs, onion rings, tomato, lettuce and barbeque sauce, this sandwich is huge, but also hugely delicious.

Really you can't go wrong with anything on the menu. And the staff is colorful and funny, with the most interesting character being the large Irishman who runs the joint. He'll let you know if you're being a drunken idiot or say something stupid, but in the fashion of his people, won't hold a grudge, and will likely buy you a pint on your next visit.

A couple years ago, the Gaf was rated as one of the top 10 restaurants in Kansas City. While I won't go that far, it is a fun place to eat or hang out, and the food is really quite good.

Scorecard
Food: 4.7
Atmosphere: 4.7
Service: 4.2
Menu: 4
Price: 3.7
Total: 21.3
Average: 4.26

http://www.thegafkc.com/index.html

Veloce e Saporito (Quick and Tasty)

Tired and hungry yesterday evening, I wanted a quick, yet delicious meal. After a quick survey of our pantry and fridge, I developed this, my latest creation, which is a take on the most American of foods, the hamburger. Thus, with no further ado, I present to you, dear reader:

Italian sausage panini burgers with creamy pesto
Serves: 2
Preparation time: 20 minutes

What you’ll need (all measurements are approximate):
½ pound ground Italian sausage
¼ c bread crumbs
1 egg
¼ c parmesan cheese
2-3 tsp mayonnaise
1-2 tsp pesto
minced garlic to taste
4 thick slices Italian bread
2 slices provolone
salt and pepper

Topping suggestions:
roasted red pepper strips
peperoncini slices
artichoke hearts
marinara
romaine leaves

Step 1: Assemble the ingredients.


Step 2: Prepare the burgers, mix ground sausage, bread crumbs, parmesan, salt, pepper and egg in a large bowl. If mixture is too runny, add more bread crumbs. Form into two large patties. Tip: To make nice, flat restaurant-style burgers, make a small depression in the center, the patties will swell as they cook.


Step 3: Cook in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat until cooked through, flipping once, about 5 minutes per side.

Step 4: While burgers are cooking, prepare pesto. Mix mayo and pesto in a bowl, add additional garlic to taste.


Step 5: As burgers near desired done-ness, brush olive oil lightly on one side of each slice of bread. Place burgers on side without oil, top with slice of provolone, and place on panini press and cook until bread has browned nicely. Tip: No panini press? No problem, simply use your George Forman Grill to get those great grill marks.



Step 6: Remove burgers from grill and dress with pesto mixture, roasted red pepper strips, peperoncinis, tomatoes, romaine leaves, marinara or some combination thereof if desired.


That’s it, your done, plate up and enjoy. If you like, try it with a bowl of minestrone soup. For a quick and easy meal, this works great, using commonly available ingredients to create complementary flavors that work well together. Next time you’re in a rush, give it a shot. I bet you’ll like it…


Special thanks again to my lovely wife Natasha for her photography.

Scorecard
Taste: 4
Ingredient availability: 4
Cost: 3.7
Time: 4.8
Ease of Preparation: 4.5
Total: 21
Average: 4.2

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My Favorite Kansas City Specialty Stores

I was out of town for the holiday last week. As a result, my lovely wife and I were unable to make our usual weekend trips out and about, trying new foods and restaurant. And unless someone wants a rather boring recipe for turkey or the good, though unspectacular bacon, mushroom and wild rice stuffing we made, my offering this week for you, dear readers, is a list of my favorite specialty foods stores in Kansas City. Thus with no further ado, I present you with my Top 10:

10. Ambica Foods - 9054 Metcalf
I'm not a huge fan of Indian food. While I appreciate it's uniqueness and exotic (to me) flavors, it's not something I can eat everyday. However, I do enjoy it from time-to-time, and my lovely wife and I have even tried our hand at preparing a few simple dishes occasionally. It was with this in mind that we finally ventured into Ambica Foods, which we had driven by countless times, but never ventured in. A small, crowded store, Ambica offers lots of things I've never seen before. With a variety of Indian and Pakistani foods, it was very interesting to wander the aisles, looking at all the strange, and no doubt delicious items. While we initially came only for Tikki Marsala, we ended up leaving with a handful of other things, including a jar of chile-lime pickles, which are awesome, yet upset my stomach everytime I eat them. The only strike I'll offer against Ambica is the employees are none too friendly. Perhaps they don't see many non-Sub-Asiatics in the store, but we were greeted with smiles only from fellow customers, not from workers. Nevertheless, the prices were reasonable and as I mentioned above, the selection immense. Try this place out the next time you attempt a Hindi dish, I bet you find something you'll like.

9. The City Market - Between 3rd and 5th Streets
Not really a specialty store per se, the City Market, or River Market, as it's also known, is my favorite spot for buying fresh seasonal produce. With lots of local Missouri and Kansas farmers bringing their products to market on Saturday mornings, this is the biggest and best farmer's market this side of Soulard in St. Louis. One of the strongest bastions of multiculturalism in the area, you'll often hear several languages as shoppers intermingle with green grocers, butchers and bakers in the true heart of the city. Prices are always cheaper than in grocery stores, plus it's fresher and you're helping the local economy.

8. La Posada - 728 Southwest Boulevard
Next to a restaurant of the same name, at which I have never eaten, La Posada is your typical Latin grocer on the Hispanic epicenter of Kansas City, Southwest Boulevard. Offering Latin American, particular Mexican, staples, La Posada has the best chorizo I've been able to find in Kansas City, and I'm a chorizo maniac. My only issue with this store was the absence of Mexican Coca-Cola, which is much better than our American version, as it is manufactured with sugar cane rather than artificial sweeteners like it is north of the border. Maybe it was there and I just missed it...

7. Al Habashi Middle Eastern Grocery - 309 Main
In the heart of the River Market, Al Habashi offers all of your favorite Middle Eastern foods, including a variety of nuts and dried fruits, spices and Halal meats. With a diverse offering of such Middle Eastern necessities as beans, lentils and grape leaves, Al Habashi has awesome pita bread. Plus they stock sweet delicacies like Baklava, as well as tahini, semolina, and a variety of teas. Entering this place, it's easy to see the influence the returning crusaders had on European cuisine, as Middle Eastern food and spices bridge the gap between east and west.

6. Cosentino's Brookside Market - 14 W. 62nd Street
Not technically a specialty store, I added Brookside Market to the list for two reasons: its produce and its meat. Brookside Market is the only place in town where I've seen black truffles (albeit dried). They always offer the freshest produce available, and they're known for having a variety of items unavailable anywhere else. Their meat and seafood counter is like a glimpse of heaven for inspired cooks. In my opinion, their scallops are the best around, fresh and huge, you can almost forget you're 1500 miles from the nearest ocean when you eat them. Sometime I'll have to post the recipe we made last Christmas using Brookside's scallops, prosciutto and sauteed portabellos on French bread... It was amazing, believe me.

5. Better Cheddar - 604 W. 84th Street
A cheese shop on the Plaza, Better Cheddar offers tasting samples as you browse. There's always something interesting to try as you wander throughout the store. Last time, we discovered a brown Norwegian cheese, the name of which escapes me, that pairs very well with fresh berries and a glass of Riesling. They also offer a variety of jams and preserves, salsas, and pretzels. One caveat: don't stop in unless you plan to buy, because we've found it impossible to leave empty-handed.

4. Carollo's Italian Gourmet Grocery - 9 E. 3rd Street
Another business located in the City Market, Carollo's has everything you need for an authentic Italian meal. From the huge barrels of olives, to pasta, to meats and sausages, Carollo's has it all. Never without a crowd on Farmer's Market Saturdays, Carollo's has every variety of olive oil you can imagine. While I haven't tried any of their meats and sausages, I'm sure they're delicious by the constant line at the butcher's counter. Plus their olive selection is legendary...


3. Chinatown Food Market - 202 Grand
You knew I wasn't going to forget this one didn't you? Chinatown Food Market is one of my favorite places in the city. I could spend hours wandering the aisles looking at all the canned goods with their strange Thai writing or browsing by the fish counter. They've got literally everything you need for Asian cuisine, even those gross-looking grub worms Tony Bourdain ate on "No Reservations". One of my favorite items from this market is a strange type of mushroom they stock. I've never seen it anywhere else, and it has a uniquely spicy flavor, which works well in any Chinese recipe calling for mushrooms, particularly considering the considerable difficulty in finding fresh straw mushrooms. The fish counter is surely the star of the show, though, featuring tanks of live fish and crabs, awaiting their doom at the hands of the expert fishmongers. Plus if you're thirsty, you can pick up a bottle of sugar cane or lychee juice. It's always an adventure going here.

2. European Delights - 8841 W. 95th Street
We found this place when my wife first moved here, a Russian store offering all the comforts of home to a new Ukrainian immigrant. Very authentic, it's even run by people from Donetsk. Offering a large selection of virtually everything, this store is near the top of the list since their move to a new location across Antioch. Modern and inviting, they've got rows of Russian and Ukrainian candies, which are awesome, by the way, pickled vegetables, and a freezer section full of cakes, pelmini and fish. There's even a deli section where you can get sausage or salo sliced to order. And of course, the Russian mayonnaise (apologies to DLC), which is so much better than it's American counterpart. When you go here, be sure to pick up the ingredients for Ukrainian crab salad, I promise you'll like it.


1. McGonigle's Market - 1307 W. 79th
If you live in Kansas City and don't know about McGonigle's, you've been missing out. A South KC institution, McGonigle's has the best meat in Kansas City. Period. Go in and look at their selection and tell me you've seen better, I dare you. You want ostrich? They've got it. Bison? Yep. Rabbit? Better believe it. And if they don't have it, and it's not on the endangered species list, they'll get it for you. It's for this reason that McGonigle's has continued to thrive when so many other butchers were going under. They're simply the best. And within easy walking distance of my house, I much prefer to pick up forgotten items here, even if they're slightly more expensive, than frequent the nightmare known as the Waldo Price Chopper. Add their weekend barbeque and seasonal morel booth, and McGonigle's is a true credit to the community.

So there it is, loyal readers, my favorite specialty markets in the Kansas City area. Of course, being limited to 10 (by myself), I had to cut a few others I considered, including The Merc in Lawrence, a great place for organics, Bella Napoli in Brookside, Jerusalem Bakery, and several other Mexican and Indian grocers. Anyone have any other recommedations? I'd love to hear them...

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